How Much Should I Feed My Puppy? Complete Feeding Guide by Age and Size

Bringing home a new puppy is exciting, overwhelming, and full of questions — and “how much should I feed my puppy?” is one of the first and most important ones. Get it right, and you’re setting the foundation for a healthy, energetic dog. Get it wrong, and you risk everything from an upset stomach to long-term growth problems.

The tricky part is that there’s no single answer. How much your puppy needs depends on their age, expected adult weight, breed, activity level, and the specific food you’re feeding. This guide breaks it all down so you can feed your puppy with confidence from their first day home through the transition to adult food.

The Short Answer

If you’re in a hurry, here’s the quick version:

8–12 weeks: 3–4 meals per day, following the food bag’s guidelines for your puppy’s expected adult weight
3–6 months: 3 meals per day, adjusting portions as they grow
6–12 months: 2 meals per day, with portions based on current weight and growth rate
12+ months (small/medium breeds) or 18–24 months (large/giant breeds): Transition to adult food and feeding schedule

But the details matter — a lot. Keep reading for the complete picture.

Understanding Puppy Nutrition Basics

Before we get into specific amounts, it helps to understand why puppy feeding is different from adult dog feeding.

Puppies Need More Calories Per Pound

A growing puppy needs roughly twice the calories per pound of body weight compared to an adult dog. This makes sense — they’re not just maintaining their body; they’re actively building bone, muscle, organs, and an immune system from scratch.

A 10-pound puppy might need 500+ calories per day, while a 10-pound adult dog of the same breed might only need 275–350. This is why puppy-specific food exists: it’s calorie-dense and nutrient-rich to support rapid growth.

The Danger of Overfeeding

Here’s the counterintuitive part: more food doesn’t mean faster, healthier growth. In fact, overfeeding a puppy — especially a large breed puppy — is one of the most common and harmful feeding mistakes.

Overfeeding causes:

Accelerated growth that puts stress on developing joints and bones
Increased risk of hip dysplasia and osteochondritis in large breeds
Puppy obesity, which strains their developing cardiovascular and skeletal systems
Lifelong weight management issues — puppies that are overfed often become adults that struggle with weight

The goal isn’t a fat puppy. The goal is a lean, steadily growing puppy with visible-but-not-prominent ribs and a discernible waist when viewed from above.

The Danger of Underfeeding

On the flip side, underfeeding causes:

Stunted growth and developmental delays
Nutritional deficiencies that affect bone density, coat quality, and immune function
Low energy and lethargy
Behavioral issues stemming from constant hunger

Finding the right balance is key, and it requires regular monitoring and adjustment.

Puppy Feeding Chart by Age

8–12 Weeks Old

This is the age most puppies come home. At this stage, they’ve just been weaned from their mother’s milk and are adjusting to solid food.

Frequency: 3–4 meals per day, evenly spaced

Daily amount guidelines (dry kibble):

Expected Adult Weight	Daily Amount (cups)	Per Meal (4 meals)
5–10 lbs (toy breeds)	⅓ – ½ cup	~2 tbsp
10–25 lbs (small breeds)	½ – 1 cup	⅛ – ¼ cup
25–50 lbs (medium breeds)	1 – 1½ cups	¼ – ⅓ cup
50–75 lbs (large breeds)	1½ – 2 cups	⅓ – ½ cup
75–100+ lbs (giant breeds)	2 – 3 cups	½ – ¾ cup

Important notes for this age:

Use the amount recommended on your specific food’s label as a starting point — calorie density varies between brands
Soak kibble in warm water for 10–15 minutes to soften it for young puppies
If your puppy consistently leaves food in the bowl, reduce the portion slightly
If your puppy wolfs down every meal and immediately looks for more, consider a slight increase

3–6 Months Old

Your puppy is in a rapid growth phase. You’ll notice them getting visibly bigger week to week, and their appetite will increase accordingly.

Frequency: 3 meals per day (drop from 4 meals around 12 weeks)

Daily amount guidelines (dry kibble):

Expected Adult Weight	Daily Amount (cups)
5–10 lbs	½ – ¾ cup
10–25 lbs	¾ – 1½ cups
25–50 lbs	1½ – 2½ cups
50–75 lbs	2½ – 4 cups
75–100+ lbs	4 – 6 cups

Important notes for this age:

Increase portions gradually as your puppy grows — weigh them weekly if possible
This is when large breed puppies are most at risk for growth-related issues from overfeeding
Your puppy may become a pickier eater — don’t add toppers or switch foods every time they skip a meal
Maintain consistent meal times rather than free-feeding

6–12 Months Old

Growth begins to slow for small and medium breeds (they’re approaching adult size) but continues steadily for large and giant breeds.

Frequency: 2 meals per day (drop from 3 meals around 6 months)

Daily amount guidelines (dry kibble):

Expected Adult Weight	Daily Amount (cups)
5–10 lbs	½ – ¾ cup
10–25 lbs	¾ – 1½ cups
25–50 lbs	2 – 3 cups
50–75 lbs	3 – 5 cups
75–100+ lbs	5 – 8 cups

Important notes for this age:

Small breeds (under 25 lbs) may be ready to transition to adult food around 9–12 months
Medium breeds transition around 12 months
Large and giant breeds should stay on puppy food until 12–18 months (some giant breeds up to 24 months)
Monitor body condition closely — you should see a waist and be able to feel (but not prominently see) ribs

The Body Condition Score: Your Best Feeding Tool

Forget about strict cup measurements for a moment. The single most reliable way to know if you’re feeding your puppy the right amount is the Body Condition Score (BCS).

The BCS is a visual and hands-on assessment used by veterinarians worldwide. Here’s the simplified version:

Too Thin (BCS 1–3/9)

Ribs, spine, and hip bones clearly visible
No discernible body fat
Obvious waist and abdominal tuck
Action: Increase food by 10–15% and reassess in a week

Ideal (BCS 4–5/9)

Ribs easily felt with light pressure but not prominently visible
Visible waist when viewed from above
Slight abdominal tuck when viewed from the side
Smooth body contour with a thin layer of fat
Action: Maintain current feeding amount

Overweight (BCS 6–7/9)

Ribs hard to feel under a layer of fat
Waist barely visible or absent
Belly appears rounded or distended
Action: Reduce food by 10–15% and increase exercise

Obese (BCS 8–9/9)

Ribs very difficult to feel
No visible waist — body is barrel-shaped
Obvious belly sag
Fat deposits on neck, limbs, and base of tail
Action: Consult your veterinarian for a weight management plan

Check your puppy’s body condition every week. It takes 30 seconds and is far more accurate than any feeding chart. Adjust portions based on what you see and feel, not just what the bag says.

Feeding Schedules: When to Feed

Consistency matters almost as much as quantity. Here’s a practical feeding schedule framework:

Sample Schedule for an 8–12 Week Old Puppy (4 meals)

7:00 AM — Breakfast
11:30 AM — Lunch
4:00 PM — Afternoon meal
7:30 PM — Dinner

Sample Schedule for a 3–6 Month Old Puppy (3 meals)

7:00 AM — Breakfast
12:30 PM — Lunch
6:00 PM — Dinner

Sample Schedule for a 6+ Month Old Puppy (2 meals)

7:00 AM — Breakfast
6:00 PM — Dinner

Key scheduling tips:

Feed at the same times every day — puppies thrive on routine
Allow 15–20 minutes to eat, then pick up any remaining food
Don’t feed immediately before or after intense exercise — wait at least 30 minutes to reduce bloat risk (especially important for large breeds)
Avoid feeding right before bedtime to make house training easier
Always ensure fresh water is available throughout the day

Special Considerations by Breed Size

Toy and Small Breeds (Under 25 lbs Adult Weight)

Small breed puppies have fast metabolisms and tiny stomachs. They’re prone to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) if they go too long without eating, which is why toy breed puppies may need 4 meals per day until 4–5 months old.

Choose a small-breed puppy formula — the kibble is smaller and calorie-dense
Never let a toy breed puppy skip a meal in the first 4 months
They typically reach adult size by 9–12 months
Transition to adult food around 10–12 months

Medium Breeds (25–50 lbs Adult Weight)

Medium breeds are the most straightforward to feed. They grow at a moderate pace and have fewer breed-specific nutritional concerns.

Standard puppy food works well — no need for size-specific formulas
Follow the standard feeding schedule (4 → 3 → 2 meals)
Reach adult size around 12 months
Transition to adult food at 12 months

Large and Giant Breeds (50+ lbs Adult Weight)

This is where feeding gets most critical. Large breed puppies grow for much longer and are highly susceptible to skeletal problems caused by inappropriate nutrition.

Use a large-breed puppy formula — these have controlled calcium and phosphorus levels that support steady (not rapid) bone growth
Never supplement with additional calcium — this is a common mistake that causes serious developmental orthopedic diseases
Growth rate matters more than growth amount — a large breed puppy should gain weight steadily, not in sudden spurts
Keep puppies lean throughout the growth phase
Giant breeds may not reach full size until 18–24 months
Don’t rush the transition to adult food — stay on large-breed puppy food until your vet confirms growth plates have closed

Wet Food vs. Dry Food vs. Mixed Feeding

Dry Kibble (Most Common)

Convenient, affordable, and good for dental health
Easy to measure and store
Most feeding guidelines are based on dry kibble
Choose a formula labeled “complete and balanced” for puppies (AAFCO statement)

Wet/Canned Food

Higher moisture content (good for hydration)
More palatable for picky eaters
More expensive per calorie than kibble
Doesn’t benefit dental health the same way
Can be used as a topper (mix a spoonful into kibble) for enhanced flavor

Mixed Feeding

Combining dry and wet food is perfectly fine
When mixing, reduce the amount of each proportionally so total calories stay appropriate
A common approach: 75% kibble + 25% wet food by calories

Raw and Fresh Diets

Increasingly popular but more complex to balance nutritionally
If you choose raw or fresh food, work with a veterinary nutritionist to ensure complete nutrition
Not generally recommended for puppies without professional guidance — the margin for error on essential nutrients is too slim during rapid growth

Common Puppy Feeding Mistakes to Avoid

1. Free-Feeding (Leaving Food Out All Day)

This makes it impossible to monitor how much your puppy eats and almost guarantees overeating. It also makes house training harder because you can’t predict when your puppy needs to go out. Stick to scheduled meals.

2. Switching Foods Too Quickly

If you need to change your puppy’s food, transition gradually over 7–10 days:

Days 1–3: 75% old food, 25% new food
Days 4–6: 50% old, 50% new
Days 7–9: 25% old, 75% new
Day 10: 100% new food

Abrupt changes cause diarrhea, vomiting, and food aversion.

3. Using Adult Food for Puppies

Puppy food isn’t just a marketing gimmick. It has higher protein, more calories, and specific calcium-to-phosphorus ratios that adult food doesn’t provide. Feeding adult food to a puppy can cause nutritional deficiencies during the most critical growth period.

4. Excessive Treats

Treats should make up no more than 10% of daily calories. It’s easy to go overboard during training — use tiny pieces (pea-sized) and account for treat calories by slightly reducing meal portions.

5. Supplementing Without Veterinary Guidance

Unless your vet specifically recommends it, don’t add supplements to a complete and balanced puppy food. Over-supplementation — especially calcium for large breeds — causes far more problems than it solves.

6. Feeding Table Scraps

Beyond the behavioral issues this creates, many human foods are calorie-dense and nutritionally inappropriate for puppies. Some are outright toxic (chocolate, grapes, onions, xylitol). Keep human food out of the puppy bowl.

When to Switch to Adult Food

The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen when your dog reaches approximately 80–90% of their expected adult weight and their growth has significantly slowed.

General guidelines:

Toy breeds (under 10 lbs): 9–11 months
Small breeds (10–25 lbs): 10–12 months
Medium breeds (25–50 lbs): 12 months
Large breeds (50–75 lbs): 12–15 months
Giant breeds (75+ lbs): 18–24 months

Your veterinarian can confirm the right timing based on your puppy’s specific growth curve and breed. For large and giant breeds, they may want to take X-rays to confirm growth plate closure before switching.

When you do switch, follow the gradual transition protocol outlined above (7–10 days of mixing old and new).

Monitoring Your Puppy’s Growth

Weekly Weigh-Ins

Weigh your puppy weekly for the first 6 months, then biweekly until they reach adult size. You can use a bathroom scale (weigh yourself, then weigh yourself holding the puppy, and subtract) or visit your vet’s office — most will let you use their scale for free.

Growth Curves

Your puppy should follow a relatively smooth, steady growth curve. Sudden spikes or plateaus can indicate feeding issues:

Sudden spike: May indicate overfeeding or a growth spurt that needs monitoring
Plateau or loss: Could indicate illness, underfeeding, parasites, or other health issues — consult your vet
Steady, gradual increase: This is exactly what you want to see

Stool Quality as a Feeding Indicator

Your puppy’s stool tells you a lot about their diet:

Firm, well-formed, easy to pick up: Feeding amount and food quality are on point
Soft, loose, or frequent: May be overfeeding, food intolerance, or too-rapid food transition
Hard, dry, small: May indicate underfeeding or dehydration
Mucus or blood: Consult your veterinarian immediately

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I feed my puppy on a schedule or free-feed?

Always use scheduled feeding. It helps you monitor intake, supports house training, prevents obesity, and establishes you as the provider of resources (which helps with training and behavior). Place the food bowl down at the designated time, allow 15–20 minutes, then remove it whether or not the puppy has finished.

My puppy won’t eat — should I be worried?

A healthy puppy skipping one meal is usually not a concern — they may be adjusting to a new environment, feeling overstimulated, or simply not hungry. If your puppy skips two or more consecutive meals, shows lethargy, vomiting, or diarrhea, contact your veterinarian. For toy breed puppies, skipping even one meal warrants closer attention due to hypoglycemia risk.

Can I add water to my puppy’s kibble?

Yes, and it’s actually recommended for young puppies (8–12 weeks). Adding warm water and letting the kibble soak for 10–15 minutes makes it easier to chew and digest. You can gradually reduce the water as they get comfortable with dry kibble, usually by 12–16 weeks.

How do I know if my puppy food is good quality?

Look for these indicators:

AAFCO statement on the label saying it’s “complete and balanced for growth” or “all life stages”
Named protein source as the first ingredient (e.g., “chicken” not “poultry by-products”)
No artificial colors or flavors
Appropriate for your puppy’s size (large breed formula if applicable)

My large breed puppy seems too thin — should I feed more?

Large breed puppies should look lean — you should see a waist and be able to feel ribs with light pressure. This is normal and healthy. A chunky large-breed puppy is actually at higher risk for developmental orthopedic problems. If you’re concerned, ask your vet to assess their body condition score rather than just increasing food.

The Bottom Line

Feeding your puppy correctly isn’t complicated, but it does require attention and regular adjustment. Here’s what to remember:

Use the food bag guidelines as a starting point, then adjust based on your puppy’s body condition
Feed scheduled meals (3–4 per day for young puppies, 2 per day by 6 months)
Keep your puppy lean — this is especially critical for large breeds
Use a puppy-specific food appropriate for their expected adult size
Weigh regularly and check body condition weekly
Transition foods gradually and avoid unnecessary supplements
Consult your vet at every checkup about your puppy’s growth and nutrition

Every puppy is an individual. The charts and guidelines in this article are a solid foundation, but the best feeding plan is one you develop in partnership with your veterinarian based on your specific puppy’s needs, breed, and growth pattern.

Your puppy’s nutrition in their first year sets the stage for a lifetime of health. Take the time to get it right — future-you (and your dog) will be grateful.